Please Read Carefully..

Our kits are really very easy to assemble and install. If you can drill a couple of holes and glue PVC pipe together...you can easily install your hand pump.

Once you have everything laid out on your lawn, everything will come together.

Just take it one step at a time...

 We Offer Great Support If You Need Help Installing Your E-Z Water Well Hand Pump,  

I'M THERE FOR YOU AT EVERY STEP, 6 Days A Week. Phone John Tatman @ Cell# 1-409-554-3628  If You Have Questions During Assembly & Installation - 9am to 5pm Central Time, Mon thru Sat.

IMPORTANT:

Do Not  Purchase Schedule 40 Pipe For The 1" Outer Casing Pipe...The 1/2" Pumping Pipe Couplers Won't Fit On The Inside Of A 1" Schedule 40 Pipe.

Here's What You Need:  

For The Outer Casing Pipe, You Need 1" Thin Wall Pipe 200 psi From Lowes, Home Depot or Menards in the Midwest, or your local hardware store.

Lowes is your best bet to buy the 1" "Thin Wall" 200 psi pipe required for the pump outer casing...Lowes stores stock it nationwide, but call before you make the trip and ask for Item #23993. Charlotte Pipe 1-in x 10-ft 200-PSI SDR 21 PVC Pipe. To save time, go to your local Lowes website and type in Charlotte Pipe  1-in x 10-ft 200 Psi Sdr 21 White Sdr 21 PVC Pipe. It'll tell you the quantity in stock and the aisle number. If it's out of stock, check another Lowes, Home Depot or Menards if you're in the Mid West.

In the Midwest you can try Menards, you'll need 1" x 10' Sdr. 21 Plain End Pipe...Model Number: 1x10sdr21PE   Ask For SKU: 6899697

At Home Depot it's called 1 in. x 10 ft. Plastic Plain End Pipe - 200 psi Thin Wall.

For the inner pumping pipe, use 1/2" Schedule 40 in10' lengths. Always in stock at most stores.

NOTE: On VERY RARE occasions, your local Home Depot or Lowes might be out the 1" Thin Wall pipe. Not To Worry...our Kit can easily be adapted to use 1 1/4" Schedule 40 pipe. Call me about this and I'll give you easy instructions,

If you have any questions, give me a call.

Test Your Pump Piston: All pistons are air tested several times during assembly, however it's advisable to test it prior to installation. It may have been damaged during shipment. Simply test it by pumping the 1/2" pipe in a 5 gallon bucket of water filled to the top. You'll be pleased with its performance.

A Diagram Overview Of How It Works

NOTE: Regarding Freeze Hole: Once your pump is built as per our instructions, it will have a 1/4" weep hole on one side of the larger 1" Thin Wall outer casing pipe (pictured in yellow) say 5' or so above your static water level that drains any seepage back into your well. This keeps the outer casing free of water below the freeze line. The smaller ½” pumping pipe (pictured in white) will have a 1/16” hole drilled on one side of the ½” pipe, 5’ to 10‘ below ground level and below your freeze line. (You must determine your freeze line) This allows the water in the ½” pump handle pipe to drain into the 1" Thin Wall casing pipe, then the 1” casing pipe drains out of the 1/4" weep hole back into your well. Simple and 100% Freeze Proof.

The pump handle and above ground outer casing pipe should be removed when not in use and your well cap should be properly insulated against any very extreme cold temperatures. IMPORTANT: IN EXTREME COLD TEMPS I Recommend Putting 1" Black FOAM Insulation on the last BELOW GROUND section of the larger 1" Thin Wall outer casing pipe. Wrap it tightly with Black Gorilla Tape so it won't slide. Put the insulation starting from the bottom of your well cap to at least below your freeze line.

Get the medium size (8 oz) can of PVC Cement...The large can applicator is too large for our smaller pipe.

IMPORTANT...Too much PVC Cement on the inside of the 1/2" couplers could cause your 1/2" pumping pipe to be blocked and your hand pump will not work properly, if at all.

Let's Get Started: You will need a Hacksaw, Knife, 1/4" Drill Bit , 1/16" Drill Bit and Heavy Duty Clear Medium Size Cans of PVC Cement ...I never use primer...it's really not needed for smaller pipe

IMPORTANT: Average Handling/Set Up Times for PVC/CPVC Solvent Cements
Handling/Set Up Time is the time required prior to handling the joint.
In damp or humid weather, allow 50% additional time

Pipe Diameter
1/2” to 1"

60° -100°F

40° - 60°F

20° - 40°F

0° - 20°F

First, You'll Need To Determine Your Static Water Level Before Purchasing Your Pipe and Fittings. It's IMPORTANT To KNOW Your Water Level In Your Well Pipe Before Proceeding With Anything... Don't Depend On Any Paperwork Your Well Driller Gave You Years Ago...Your Water Level May Have Changed... You DON'T Want To Install Your New Pump And Be Just Short Of Water...It'll Only Suck Air If That Happens.

Measure It Yourself...TWICE

You may have a 350' well, but your static water level is much closer to the surface.

To find your static well water level,

Let's lay out the pump..

If Installing In a Well/Pump House, Basement Or Under Any Roof, See This Diagram and Call Me With Any Questions

Cement one coupler fitting to all 10' sections of pipe on the upper ends, both 1/2" and 1" pipes, facing the pump handle, No Need For The Primer...

Photo of pipe and Support Section

Lay all piping out so you can see how it goes together and to help keep you organized When laying out your pump, start at the bottom of the EZ pump piston cylinder and work your way up to the pump handle, as seen in this photo.

The All Important 1/4" Weep Hole Pipe AND 1/16" AntiFreeze Hole

The pipe shown above is a short piece for illustration. Use a 10' section.

A ladder to assist is optional - it helps with a 1 person install.

A ladder was sometimes used when installing the heaver piping we used in the past...I left these photos in for your consideration...no need to cut a hole in your ladder...if you use one, stand the ladder upright and simply tie the pipe to the side of the ladder with a short piece of rope.

When everything is laid out: Let's get started

This Is The Connecting End Of The Pump Piston

Remember, use a cotton swab when applying cement to the INSIDE of the 1/2" couplers so you don't apply too much and restrict the water flow. Use the can applicator for outside of both 1/2" and 1" pipe...Apply liberally on the outside of both pipes. The PVC cement must be spread evenly for a secure fit.

Take Your Time With This.

Attach the next vertical section

The Channel Locks are used in a 1 person install.

I recommend 2 people for the install on deeper wells with more than 75' of piping. As you add pipe, you'll need someone to move the wooden support to the next 1" coupling as you lower the piping and to help with the weight as you add more pipe.

The red handle clamp is optional and is simply used to hold the 1/2" pipe a little higher while cementing. OR another person helping can hold up the pipe while you glue/cement.

Also optional but recommended is a nylon or polypropylene rope tied securely to the pump piston just under the larger 1" coupler and anchored to a ladder or stationary object, as seen to left as a safety line. After install, simply tie off around the lower well pipe and leave in place.

Let the PVC cement cure (dry) for at least 10 minutes before lowering each 10' section into your well.

Simply repeat the process all the way up To The Top T Handle.

This photo shows completed pump...before channel locks were removed and "T" handle is pushed down.

You are finished, Done...Pat yourself on the back, you deserve it.

Now a sincere personal note. This may sound hokey, but the very first water that comes out of your hand pump will give you a feeling of self reliance and security, knowing you have prepared for your family one of the most important things for survival...water. It's a great feeling.