EZ Water Well Hand Pumps.com

Pump Installation Instructions - Read Carefully

 
 
 

 

IMPORTANT:

For The Outer Casing Pipe, You Need 1" Thin Wall Pipe 200 psi From Lowes, Home Depot or Menards in the Midwest, or your local hardware store.

Do Not  Purchase Schedule 40 For The 1" Outer Casing Pipe...The 1/2" Pumping Pipe Couplers Won't Fit.

The 1/2" Pumping Pipe IS Schedule 40.

Lowes is your best bet to buy the 1" "Thin Wall" 200 psi pipe required for the pump outer casing...Lowes stores stock it nationwide, but call before you make the trip and ask for Item #23993. Charlotte Pipe 1-in x 10-ft 200-PSI SDR 21 PVC Pipe.

In the Midwest you can try Menards, you'll need 1" x 10' Sdr. 21 Plain End Pipe...Model Number: 1x10sdr21PE   Ask For SKU: 6899697

Home Depot it's called 1 in. x 10 ft. Plastic Plain End Pipe 200 psi "Thin Wall"

The required 1/2" Schedule 40 inside pumping pipe is always in stock at most stores. You'll need both sizes.

Go Ahead And Preview This Page, But Come Back To These Links To Get Started:

#1 First, Build Your Pump Handle >>     

#2  Then Build Your Support Unit >>

#3 Wooden Installation Support Block >>

#4 Detachable Pump Handle Section >>

Installing In A Well House Or Indoors>>

Optional: Building & Installing 4 ft. Long Pump Assist Handle For 175' Deep Well. Not really needed but (optional) The vertical pumping stroke will be reduced which means less water.

Bonus Page >>

Many who purchase our Pump Piston simply store it with all the piping, fittings and PVC Cement until it's needed in an emergency. If this is your plan, I suggest building the support and pump handle and have them ready.

 
Please Note: First, you may have noticed that your pump piston did not come with a decal or company name/logo as seen on our website. Decals will peel off and paint has toxins that could leech into your well water over time. We certainly don't want that to happen.

Also you may detect a slight odor of PVC cement when you open your order. Not to worry, this is normal and will eventually go away. PVC cement is used worldwide everyday in water well installations and will not harm your well water.

 

 

I've been putting these pumps together for years and I probably can do it in my sleep. However, when you first see the instructions, you might tend to be a little overwhelmed...please don't be. It's really very easy to assemble and install.

Once you have everything laid out on your lawn, everything will come together.

Just take it one step at a time...

 We Offer Great Support If You Need Help Installing Your E-Z Water Well Hand Pump,  

I'M THERE FOR YOU AT EVERY STEP. Phone John Tatman @ Cell# 1-409-554-3628 If You Have Questions During Assembly & Installation

A Diagram Overview Of How It Works

NOTE: Regarding Freeze Hole: Once your pump is built as per our instructions, it will have a 1/4" weep hole on one side of the larger 1" Thin Wall outer casing pipe (pictured in yellow) say 5' or so above your static water level that drains any seepage back into your well. This keeps the outer casing free of water below the freeze line. The smaller pumping pipe (pictured in white) will have a 1/16 hole drilled on one side of the pipe, 5 to 10 below ground level and below your freeze line. (You must determine your freeze line) This allows the water in the pump handle pipe to drain into the 1" Thin Wall casing pipe, then the 1 casing pipe drains out of the 1/4" weep hole back into your well. Simple and 100% Freeze Proof.

The pump handle and above ground outer casing pipe should be removed when not in use and your well cap should be properly insulated against any very extreme cold temperatures. IMPORTANT: IN EXTREME COLD TEMPS I Recommend Putting 1" Black FOAM Insulation on the last BELOW GROUND section of the larger 1" Thin Wall outer casing pipe. Wrap it tightly with Black Gorilla Tape so it won't slide. Put the insulation starting from the bottom of your well cap to at least below your freeze line.

 

 

Let's Get Started: You will need a Hacksaw, Knife, 1/4" Drill Bit , 1/16" Drill Bit (not shown) 1 3/8" Hole Saw (if using your existing well cap) and Heavy Duty PVC Cement ...I never use primer...it's really not needed for smaller pipe

Cement all fittings thoroughly  and REMOVE ALL EXCESS cement from around the joint after connecting pipe or fittings with paper towels or cloth. Let the PVC cement cure (dry) for at least 5 minutes before lowering each 10' section into your well.

 

IMPORTANT: Average Handling/Set Up Times for PVC/CPVC Solvent Cements
Handling/Set Up Time is the time required prior to handling the joint.
In damp or humid weather, allow 50% additional time

Temperature
During
Assembly

Pipe Diameter
1/2
to 1"

60 -100F

2 minutes - I would wait 5 to 6 minutes for each larger 1" coupling fitting cement to cure, especially on deeper wells.

40 - 60F

5 minutes

20 - 40F

8 minutes

0 - 20F

10 minutes

 

First, You'll Need To Determine Your Static Water Level Before Purchasing Your Pipe and Fittings. It's IMPORTANT To KNOW Your Water Level In Your Well Pipe Before Proceeding With Anything... Don't Depend On Any Paperwork Your Well Driller Gave You Years Ago...Your Water Level May Have Changed... You DON'T Want To Install Your New Pump And Be Just Short Of Water...It'll Only Suck Air If That Happens.

Measure It Yourself...TWICE

You may have a 350' well, but your static water level is much closer to the surface.

To find your static well water level,

Here is what you'll need. A large fishing bobber. They are normally red on bottom & white on top. (Wal Mart, fishing dept), you'll need a large washer, next get some twine/string, (not too thick) say 100 ft. Now you are going fishing...so to speak. :-)
 
Tie the washer to the end of the twine/string. Next tie the bobber about 6 inches to a foot above the weight. Now lower that down your well opening...the bobber will float when it hits water and go slack...you should feel it get lighter...(Make Sure It Is Hitting Water...bob it up and down rather quickly , you should hear a blooping sound as the fishing float hits the water) then pull it tight to take out the slack...mark it at top of well opening by pinching a piece of tape around the twine...pull the fishing bobber out...lay twine/string on the the ground and measure. That is your static water level. 

 
After Finding Your Static Water Level. If you have a 2" well opening, I recommend figuring at 20' to 25' deeper from your static water level down to the EZ pump piston brass foot valve. Here's why...The recommended 20' to 25' below static water level is to give you enough water in your well casing to pump up.
For example; My well is 350' deep and has a static water level of 37'...but it's only a 2" well casing.
So this allows me to pump around 9 or so strokes before I draw down the water to the foot valve and it starts sucking air. A 2" well can only hold so much water at 27 feet below static water level. However, my water recovery rate is good. All I do is wait less than a minute and the water level is back up and I can start pumping again.

This is much less critical in a 4" or 6" well because they hold more water in the well casing. The 25' is NOT written in stone. With a 6" well, you can put the foot valve 15' below static water level...It's really no big deal...
Just go as deep as you can down to say 15' or 20'.below static water level.
 

 

Buying Your Pipe: Our Pump Piston uses 1" THIN WALL PVC - 200 PE Pipe At Lowes or Home Depot, for the outer casing and 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 for the inner pumping pipe. I recommend Lowes if you have one near you. Purchase in 10' sections. The pump piston cylinder is around 3' long and the handle section is about 2' tall above ground, so if you are going down about 70' all you need is 6 or 7 10' pieces of both pipe sizes...1" Thin Wall and 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe.. If you should need a few more coupling connectors, you'll need 1" & 1/2" couplers.

Let's lay out the pump..

 

If Installing In a Well/Pump House, Basement Or Under Any Roof, See This Diagram and Call Me With Any Questions

 

Cement one coupler fitting to all 10' sections of pipe on the upper ends, both 1/2" and 1" pipes, facing the pump handle, No Need For The Primer...

Photo of pipe and Support Section

 

Lay all piping out so you can see how it goes together and to help keep you organized When laying out your pump, start at the bottom of the EZ pump piston cylinder and work your way up to the pump handle, as seen in this photo.

 

VERY IMPORTANT: Drill your 1/4" Weep Hole and 1/16" Anti Freeze Hole while you have it laid out on the ground. See detailed descriptions below.
 

The All Important 1/4" Weep Hole Pipe AND 1/16" AntiFreeze Hole

IN ADDITION To The 1/4" Weep Hole At Left, Drill a 1/16" hole ON ONE SIDE of the last piece of 1/2" Pumping Pipe a few feet below your freeze line. This will allow drainage from the pumping pipe as shown in the above pump diagram.

The pipe shown above is a short piece for illustration. Use a 10' section.

 
Before attempting to drill the holes, use a small nail and tap it with a hammer a few times to make an indentation in the pipe, so the drill bit won't slide while you are trying to drill the holes.
 
Weep Hole Pipe: See The Lay Out Photo At The Beginning: Drill a 1/4" hole ON ONE SIDE in the center of one 1" 10' pipe. Put this pipe between your static water level and the pump handle. The hole should go about 5' or so above your static water level. The weep hole is to drain any seepage out of the 1" Thin Wall pump casing back into your well. Be sure to get any drill shavings out of the pipe. Push a rag through it with a 1/2" 10' pipe to clean it out. REMEMBER to include it in the assembly. VERY IMPORTANT
 

 

A ladder to assist is optional - it helps with a 1 person install.

A ladder was sometimes used when installing the heaver piping we used in the past...I left these photos in for your consideration...no need to cut a hole in your ladder...if you use one, simply tie the pipe to the side of the ladder with a short piece of rope.

 

When everything is laid out: Let's get started

 

This Is The Connecting End Of The Pump Piston

 
To begin: Cement the first 10' section of both size pipes on the ground, then insert 14' section (4' Piston plus 10' section) in well pipe. All other sections will be attached/cemented vertically
 

 

 
Begin Assembly: Attach your first pipe. Apply PVC cement to the inside of 1/2" coupling that is already attached to the EZ piston cylinder pipe. Then apply the cement to the outside of your first smaller 1/2" X 10' pipe.
Connect the two by pushing them together tightly and turning about 1/4 turn. The turning helps spread the cement evenly. It's important for a 1/4  turn on all fittings.
 

 
Next, your first larger pipe: Take the 1" Thin Wall  X 10' casing pipe and slide it over the 1/2" pump pipe. When the 1/2" pipe is in the 1" pipe, there is little room for the PVC cement applicator to fit into the 1" coupling to swab with cement. Simply try to coat as best you can the inside lip of the 1" coupling without getting too much glue on the 1/2" pumping pipe...(use a cue tip cotton swab bent a little at a 45 degree angle, it's smaller than the can applicator). Then coat the outside of the 1" casing pipe thoroughly  with the PVC cement can applicator and connect to the 1" coupling on the EZ  piston cylinder. Push in hard and make 1/4 turn. The PVC cement must be spread evenly for a secure fit. Take Your Time With This.

 

Now you have the first 10' section of piping cemented to the 4' pump piston. Install this first assembled 14 ' section into your well using the wooden support block. Then you add 10' sections vertically as you lower piping into well.

 
 

Attach the next vertical section

 

 

The Channel Locks are used in a 1 person install.

I recommend 2 people for the install on deeper wells with more than 75' of piping. As you add pipe, you'll need someone to move the wooden support to the next 1" coupling as you lower the piping and to help with the weight as you add more pipe.

Insert the 1/2" pipe into the 1" pipe on the ground and clamp on the channel locks (IF A ONE PERSON INSTALL) as seen to left. Then raise to vertical position and cement the 1/2" pipe. Then remove channel locks and cement the larger 1" pipe. Be sure to cement the inside and outside of all pipe casing. Remember , TAKE YOUR TIME AND THINK EVERYTHING THROUGH.

The red handle clamp is optional and is simply used to hold the 1/2" pipe a little higher while cementing. OR another person helping can hold up the pipe while you glue/cement.

Also optional is a nylon or polypropylene rope tied securely to the pump piston just under the larger 1" coupler and anchored to a ladder or stationary object, as seen to left as a safety line. After install, simply tie off around the lower well pipe and leave in place. If you are careful, or if you have help, a security rope isn't needed.

Let the PVC cement cure (dry) for at least 5 minutes before lowering each 10' section into your well.

 

Simply repeat the process all the way up To The Top T Handle.

 

 
 

This photo shows completed pump...before channel locks were removed and "T" handle is pushed down.

 

 
Pumping: The pump stroke should not be fast and jerky. The most efficient way to pump is a smooth straight up stroke then push straight down smoothly then pull straight up smoothly.
 

You are finished, Done...Pat yourself on the back, you deserve it.

Now a sincere personal note. This may sound hokey, but the very first water that comes out of your hand pump will give you a feeling of self reliance and security, knowing you have prepared for your family one of the most important things for survival...water. It's a great feeling.

 
We Offer Great Support: If You Need Help Installing Your E-Z Water Well Hand Pump, Call 1-409-554-3628 9am to 5pm, Mon to Sat After hours Email Our Help Desk. WE ARE THERE FOR YOU AT EVERY STEP.