E-Z Water Well Hand Pumps.com

 
 
 
See Our New Optional Instructions Page >>

Choose the Install method that suits you.

 

Go Ahead And Preview This Page, But Come Back To These Links To Get Started: Materials List

#1 First, Build Your Pump Handle >>      #2  Then Build Your Support Unit >>

Many who purchase our Pump Piston simply store it with all the piping, fittings and PVC Cement until it's needed in an emergency. If this is your plan, I suggest building the support and pump handle and have them ready. Also print out and include the instructions.

Please Print Out All Instructions & Keep With Pump Piston

Please Note: First, you may have noticed that your pump piston did not come with a decal or company name/logo as seen on our website. Decals will peel off and paint has toxins that could leech into your well water over time. We certainly don't want that to happen.

Also you may detect a slight odor of PVC cement when you open your order. Not to worry, this is normal and will eventually go away. PVC cement is used worldwide everyday in water well installations and will not harm your well water.

 
 

IMPORTANT: All Pump Pistons are tested prior to shipping, however it is recommended that you also test it prior to installation to make sure it wasn't damaged in shipping. Put the Pump Piston bronze foot valve in a 5 gallon bucket of water and pump it by hand to make sure it is working to your satisfaction.

 
 

 

I've been putting these pumps together for years and I probably can do it in my sleep. However, when you first see the instructions, you might tend to be a little overwhelmed...please don't be. It's really very easy to assemble and install.

Once you have everything laid out on your lawn, everything will come together.

Just take it one step at a time...

 We Offer Great Support If You Need Help Installing Your E-Z Water Well Hand Pump,  

I'M THERE FOR YOU AT EVERY STEP. Phone John Tatman @ Cell# 1-409-554-3628 If You Have Questions During Assembly & Installation

A Diagram Overview Of How It Works

NOTE: Regarding Freeze Hole: Once your pump is built as per our instructions, it will have a 3/8" weep hole on one side of the larger outer casing pipe (pictured in yellow) say 5' or so above your static water level that drains any seepage back into your well. This keeps the outer casing free of water below the freeze line. The smaller pumping pipe (pictured in white) will have a 1/16 hole drilled on one side of the pipe, 5 to 10 below ground level and below your freeze line. (You must determine your freeze line) This allows the water in the pump handle pipe to drain into the 1 casing pipe, then the 1 casing pipe drains out of the weep hole back into your well. Simple and 100% Freeze Proof.

 However, as with any above ground water pipes, the above ground portion of the pump handle and outer casing (about 2 1/2' above ground level) should be properly insulated against any extreme cold temperatures. .

 

 

 

Let's Get Started: You will need a Hacksaw, Knife, 3/8" Drill Bit , 1/16" Drill Bit (not shown) and Heavy Duty PVC Cement & Primer.  (Follow directions on can). I suggest priming all the piping and fittings first, before assembling pipe and fittings with cement.  

Cement all fittings thoroughly  and REMOVE ALL EXCESS cement from around the joint after connecting pipe or fittings with paper towels or cloth. Let the PVC cement cure (dry) for at least a few hours before placing the pump in your well.

 

First Determine Your Static Water Level Before Purchasing Your Pipe and Fittings

You may have a 350' well, but your static water level is much closer to the surface.

To find your static well water level,

Here is what you'll need. A large fishing bobber. They are normally red on bottom & white on top. (Wal Mart, fishing dept), you'll need a large washer, next get some twine/string, (not too thick) say 100 ft. Now you are going fishing...so to speak. :-)
 
Tie the washer to the end of the twine/string. Next tie the bobber about 6 inches to a foot above the weight. Now lower that down your well opening...the bobber will float when it hits water and go slack...you should feel it get lighter...(Make Sure It Is Hitting Water...bob it up and down rather quickly , you should hear a blooping sound as the fishing float hits the water) then pull it tight to take out the slack...mark it at top of well opening by pinching a piece of tape around the twine...pull the fishing bobber out...lay twine/string on the the ground and measure. That is your static water level. 

 
After Finding Your Static Water Level. I recommend figuring at 20' to 25' deeper from your static water level down to the EZ pump piston foot valve. Here's why...The recommended 20' to 25' below static water level is to give you enough water in your well casing to pump up.
For example; My well is 350' deep and has a static water level of 37'...but it's only a 2" well casing.
So this allows me to pump around 9 or so strokes before I draw down the water to the foot valve and it starts sucking air. A 2" well can only hold so much water at 27 feet below static water level. However, my water recovery rate is good. All I do is wait less than a minute and the water level is back up and I can start pumping again.

This is much less critical in a 4" or 6" well because they hold more water in the well casing. The 25' is NOT written in stone. With a 6" well, you can put the foot valve 15' below static water level...It's really no big deal...
Just go as deep as you can down to say 20' or 25'.below static water level.
 

See Materials List >

Buying Your Pipe: Our Pump Piston uses 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe for the outer casing and 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 for the inner pumping pipe. You'll also need 1 piece of 3/4" X 10' Schedule 40 pipe for the pump handle assembly which we'll discuss later AND an extra piece of 1 1/4" pipe that you'll need for the Support section. I recommend Home Depot if you have one near you. Purchase in 10' sections. The pump piston cylinder is around 4' long and the Support section is a little over 5' long, so if you are going down about 70' all you need is 6 10' pieces of both pipe sizes...1 1/4" and 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe.. Remember to purchase the 1 piece of 3/4" Schedule 40 for your pump handle.

The fittings you need JUST for your piping... buy 1 coupling for each 10' piece of 1 1/4" pipe and one coupling for each 1/2" pipe. So for a 70' total pump depth, you'll need 6 1 1/4" couplings and 6 1/2" couplings.

Let's lay out the pump..

 

If Installing In a Well/Pump House, Basement Or Under Any Roof, See This Diagram and Call Me With Any Questions

 

The Lay Out - When assembling your pump, start at the bottom of the EZ pump piston cylinder and work your way up to the pump handle, as seen in this photo.

 
Try to assemble your pump close to your well. Lay out the pipe as shown above: The 1/2" water pumping pipe in line with pump piston cylinder and the larger 1 1/4" casing pipe next to it. After laying out your pipe, cement 1 coupler fitting to all 10' sections of pipe on the upper ends, both 1/2" and 1 1/4" pipes, facing the pump handle, EXCEPT the last 1 1/4" pipe and last 1/2" pipe by the pump handle.

My advice is: TAKE YOUR TIME & Take One Step At A Time...

 

 

When everything is laid out: Let's get started

This Is The Connecting End Of The Pump Piston

 
 
To begin: Push the 1/2" pumping pipe (small one) in until it hits the foot valve, then pull it out about 3" from the pump piston casing, (1 1/4" larger pipe). It is important to maintain approximately 3" throughout pump assembly. This will prevent the inner pump piston from hitting the brass foot valve while you are pumping water. Plus, you'll need room to work when cementing the joints together. 
 

 

 
Begin Assembly: Attach your first pipe. Apply PVC cement to the inside of 1/2" coupling that is already attached to the EZ piston cylinder pipe (the smaller pipe you pulled out of the piston casing). Then apply the cement to the outside of your first smaller 1/2" X 10' pipe.
Connect the two by pushing them together tightly and turning about 1/4 turn. The turning helps spread the cement evenly. It's important for a 1/4  turn on all fittings.
 

 

Now your first larger pipe: Take the 1 1/4" X 10' casing pipe and slide it over the 1/2" pump pipe. When the 1/2" pipe is in the 1 1/4" pipe, there is little room for the PVC cement applicator to fit into the 1 1/4" coupling to swab with cement. Simply try to coat as best you can the inside of the 1 1/4 coupling without getting any glue on the 1/2" pumping pipe...(try a cue tip cotton swab, it's smaller than the can applicator). Then coat the outside of the 1 1/4" casing pipe thoroughly  with the PVC cement can applicator and connect to the 1 1/4" coupling on the EZ  piston cylinder. Push in hard and make 1/4 turn. The PVC cement must be spread evenly for a secure fit.

 

 

Now you have one section completed. Simply repeat this process until you reach the pump handle section.

 

 

Now the second section of pipes:

Simply repeat the process with the next 1/2" smaller pipe.

 
 

Then, repeat the process with 1 1/4" casing pipe. Be sure to cement the inside and outside of all pipe casing. Remember , TAKE YOUR TIME AND THINK EVERYTHING THROUGH.

 

 

The All Important 3/8" Weep Hole Pipe AND 1/16" AntiFreeze Hole

IN ADDITION To The 3/8" Weep Hole At Left, Drill a 1/16" hole ON ONE SIDE of the last piece of 1/2" Pumping Pipe a few feet below your freeze line. This will allow drainage from the pumping pipe as shown in the above pump diagram.

The pipe shown above is a short piece for illustration. Use a 10' section. I Prefer 3/8" Weep Hole

 
Before attempting to drill the holes, use a small nail and tap it with a hammer a few times to make an indentation in the pipe, so the drill bit won't slide while you are trying to drill the holes.
 
Weep Hole Pipe: See The Lay Out Photo At The Beginning: Drill a 3/8" hole ON ONE SIDE in the center of one 1 1/4" 10' pipe. Put this pipe between your static water level and the pump handle. The hole should go about 5' to 10 'or so above your static water level. The weep hole is to drain any seepage out of the 1 1/4" pump casing back into your well. Be sure to get any drill shavings out of the pipe. Push a rag through it with a 1/2" 10' pipe to clean it out. REMEMBER to include it in the assembly. VERY IMPORTANT
 
 
 

Last Section Of 1/2" Pipe

 

This is the last section of 1/2" pipe: This is the section to drill your Freeze Hole. IT SHOULD NOT HAVE A 1/2" COUPLER ON THE LAST 1/2" PIPE OR THE LAST 1 1/4" PIPE, This last section of 1/2" pipe will fit on your 3/4" X 9 ft. handle pipe ...which has a coupler already attached.

 

 

 

Next, cement and attach the last 1 1/4" casing pipe section. You should NOT have a Coupler on the last    1 1/4" pipe either. This last section of 1 1/4" pipe will fit on your 5 ft. support assembly that you already built...which already has a coupler attached.

 

 

Now We Switch From 1/2" To 3/4" Pumping Pipe

Now on to the 9 ft long 3/4" pump handle pipe. The reason we switch from 1/2" to 3/4" pipe for the pump handle pipe is for rigidity. It is a larger pipe and doesn't flex while pumping.   

 

Now glue and connect the 2 sections below that you built earlier.

FIRST: Glue and connect the smaller 3/4" X 9' pipe to the last 1/2" pipe you attached without the coupler, then slide your 5 ft. X 1 1/4"  Support assembly pipe over the 9 ft. X 3/4" pump pipe and glue and attach.

 

The very last thing you do is glue on the T handle...Please Read Carefully

Once your 3/4" X 9 ft long pump pipe is glued and connected AND you have also glued and attached the 1 1/4" 5 ft. Casing pipe with your SUPPORT ATTACHED , you should have an excess of about 4' of 3/4" pipe sticking out. This is where you'll glue on the pump handle AFTER YOU CUT OFF the excess 3/4" pipe...NOW BEFORE YOU CUT,  WHILE IT'S ON THE GROUND, I want you to push the 3/4" pump pipe in until it hits the bottom piston foot valve. THEN pull it out about 3". NOW mark and cut the 3/4" X 9' pipe FLUSH with the last 1 1/4" Casing pipe coupler. Now you should have a 2 1/2" to 3" clearance between the piston and the foot valve. After cutting, you can pull out the 3/4" pipe a little more so you can glue on the pump T handle. After gluing, push the handle back in and you will have the necessary clearance down at the foot valve. Just make sure they don't hit each other...See Below Photo

 

The pump handle should sit right on top of the final 1 1/4" coupling.

 

YOU ARE READY TO INSTALL YOUR HAND PUMP

MOST IMPORTANT

Get Adequate Help For The Install

The Install Is Simple...as long as you have adequate help. Have all your ducks in a row and have everyone briefed as to what their job is, BEFORE you start the install.

For a short pump of say 25'- 2 people can install

For a pump 25' to 50' - 3 people can install

For a pump 50' to 75' - 4 people can install

For pumps over 75' - 4 to 5 people should install

CLICK To SEE DIAGRAM >>>

One person can assemble our E-Z Water Well Hand Pump on the ground, but you'll need 2 to 5 able bodied people to help with the weight while feeding the pump into your well. To install your pump you first place the pump piston in your well opening creating a high arch just like the above photo shows. Once the pump piston and a few feet of pipe is in your well opening, it will create a higher arch as the pipe bends upward. The following description is for a pump over 75' long. Adjust the number helpers you need according to your total pump length. With you and 2 of your helpers at the well opening, feed the pipe in as you stand directly over your well with all helpers holding the pipe to help with the weight. Keep the pipe straight and vertical as all 3 of you slowly lower it into your well. Your third helper is on a step ladder or in the bed of a pick up truck (to get up a few feet higher). Place this person 25' to 30' behind you and behind the arch lifting the pipe overhead, feeding you more pipe as you need it. NOTE; With a pump longer than 75', have an extra helper on the ground to help behind the ladder/truck, lifting and feeding. That's 3 people at the well opening and 2 people behind the arch (one person on a ladder/truckbed and one person on the ground about 20' behind the ladder/truck) holding the pipe overhead and feeding more pipe as it's lowered into well. With everyone working together, keep the arch as high as you can.

Keep the arch high and the pipe as VERTICAL as possible when lowering into well.

DO NOT PUT THE PIPE INTO A STRESSED POSITION BY Having The Arch Too Low.

The more pipe you feed into the well vertically, the heavier it gets, so it is important to have adequate help to hold the pump as it's lowered....Don't Skimp On This...

This may seem like overkill, but it's really not if you want a smooth install. The more help you have the easier it is.

Lowering the pump into your well should take about 10 minutes.

It's easier to get all the help you need if you have a little cook out Bar B Que, after the install.

 

 
Pumping: There is approximately a 30" stroke length in the pump piston itself, but for easier pumping take only about 18" strokes. The pump stroke should not be fast and jerky. The most efficient way to pump is a smooth straight up stroke...pause for a split second (See my video for proper pumping)...then push straight down smoothly...pause for a split second...then pull straight up smoothly.
 

You are finished, Done...Pat yourself on the back, you deserve it.

Now a sincere personal note. This may sound hokey, but the very first water that comes out of your hand pump will give you a feeling of self reliance and security, knowing you have prepared for your family one of the most important things for survival...water. It's a great feeling.

 
We Offer Great Support: If You Need Help Installing Your E-Z Water Well Hand Pump, Call 1-409-554-3628 9am to 5pm, Mon to Sat After hours Email Our Help Desk. WE ARE THERE FOR YOU AT EVERY STEP.